Tragona: what stuck to my ribs, pulled on my heartstrings, and got me in my feelings this month: Casa Dos Piedras.

Casa Dos Piedras, Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca

The view over the valley from Casa Dos Piedras is breathtaking — just recently rain-washed and vividly green. The air this high up is cool; we all pull out jackets. We are greeted by Ana, who shows us to our table. It is set beautifully and next to her pedal loom. Colorful huipiles, handbags, and rebosos adorn the corrugated walls of the outdoor dining space. 

Casa Dos Piedras invites guests to experience the traditional cuisine of Teotitlán del Valle and additionally offers natural dye, weaving, and chocolate-making demonstrations. Ana introduces the project, explaining that she is part of a network of female entrepreneurs in the valley who have received funding with microloans from Fundación En Via. 

From their website: 

“Fundación En Vía is a non-profit organization that works to empower women to better support themselves and their families. We use funds generated through responsible tourism to provide interest-free loans and educational programs to entrepreneurial women in 5 communities in the Tlacolula Valley of Oaxaca, Mexico.”

After a day hiking around Hierve el Agua and visiting the Dos Pasiones palenque, my adventure mates and I came to Teotitlán for a meal. We left with so much more. We were moved by the setting, the people, the adventurous ride up led by our mototaxi escort, and Ana's food. It tasted as alive as the valley looked.

Our meal started with natural corn tostadas smeared with black beans and topped with queso fresco. Chapulines, quesillo, and a green tomato and morita chile salsa were there for the taking. The main course, a celebrated comfort dish of the season, was sopa de guías: squash vines, tendrils, and blossoms, corn, and the aromatic fresh herbs chepiche and chepil. Vibrant and nutritious, straight from the milpa. Even the dessert was vegetable-based, chayote cooked in panela (piloncillo), served at room temperature.

I always trust my Teotiteca friend to make the best recommendations in her hometown. Thank you, Cristy! 

Divino y memorable. ¡Gracias!

Our Menu at Casa Dos Piedras

Té de pericón 

Agua de pepino con limón y chía

Tostada with black beans, queso fresco, chapulines, and salsa de chile morita 

Sopa de guías with tlayudas 

Postre de chayote endulzado con panela